How to keep poinsettias, Christmas cactus and amaryllis alive
Holiday plants usually die from the same few things: cold drafts, soggy soil and too little light. Here's how to keep each one going, and how to get it to bloom again next year.
Reviewed October 2026
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Most holiday plants dislike sudden temperature changes and dry indoor air, so keep them away from doors, heat vents, fireplaces and space heaters.
Poinsettia
| What it needs | |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright daylight from a south, east or west window |
| Temperature | 65 to 70°F. Below 50°F damages it, and frost kills it |
| Water | When the surface feels dry or the pot feels light. Water in the sink and let it drain completely |
- Take off the foil wrapper or outer pot before watering, or poke holes in it. Never let the pot sit in standing water.
- Keep it wrapped on the way home in cold weather, since temperatures below 50°F damage it.
- Is it poisonous? University of Minnesota Extension says poinsettias aren't poisonous, but the sap can irritate skin and the plant shouldn't be eaten. Keep it away from pets and small children who chew plants.
To make it turn red again next year: starting around September 21, give it 16 hours of complete darkness and 8 hours of bright light every day, with nights in the low 60s. Even a little light during the dark period can stop it. Stop at Thanksgiving and give it at least 6 hours of direct light.
Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus
Thanksgiving cactus and Christmas cactus are close cousins, and both bloom from late fall into winter. Their names only loosely match when they flower.
| What it needs | |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright but filtered light; strong sun can scorch it |
| Temperature | 65 to 70°F during the day, 55 to 65°F at night |
| Water | Let the soil dry between waterings, then drain it and empty the saucer |
Why buds drop: cold drafts or heat vents, sudden changes in temperature, moving the plant once buds have formed, and overwatering. Find it a spot and leave it there until it's done blooming.
To make it bloom again: in fall, give it 12 or more hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks, with nights between 55 and 65°F. At about 55°F it may bloom regardless of day length. It's unlikely to bloom if nights stay above 65°F.
Amaryllis
- Planting a bulb: use a pot about an inch wider than the bulb, and leave a third to half of the bulb above the soil.
- Light: a sunny window. Move it out of direct sun once the buds open.
- Water: sparingly at first, then once growth starts, when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Don't let it sit in water.
- After flowering: cut off the faded flowers, but leave the stalk until it yellows and keep the leaves. They feed the bulb for next year.
To make it bloom again: keep it growing in a sunny spot through spring and summer, watering and feeding it. When you want it to rest, let the leaves turn brown and dry, cut them off, and store the pot somewhere cool and dark (50 to 60°F) for 8 to 12 weeks without water. Then move it back to a sunny window and start watering. Flowers usually follow in 4 to 6 weeks.
Sources
- Growing and caring for poinsettia, University of Minnesota Extension
- Holiday cacti, University of Minnesota Extension
- Growing and caring for amaryllis, University of Minnesota Extension
- Your holiday plant survival guide, University of Minnesota Extension